Grooming - Brushing

Brushing your dog requires both specialised equipment as well as a basic understanding of the various tools that are effective for different types of coats and different styles of clips and cuts. Having the right equipment can make the job much easier for both the dog and the owner. Dogs, just like people, have sensitive skin and incorrect brushing can lead to irritations, rashes and skin flaking. Making brushing and grooming as positive as possible for your dog will help them look forward to regular grooming and will make the process easier each time that you groom.

Longer haired dogs have different grooming equipment than shorter haired dogs, simply because they have much more extreme grooming needs. A long haired dog, regardless of the type of coat, will have a much greater chance of developing tangles and mats if not properly cared for.

If the dog has a long outer coat and a thick dense inner coat it is important to have a wide toothed grooming comb or a detangling rake. These two pieces of grooming equipment are essential for removing larger mats in the coat and giving the coat an initial run through to remove any tangles or any debris. The grooming rake or the comb should be appropriately sized for the dog. A large dog will need a comb or brush with a larger surface area to cut down on the amount of time that it takes to actually complete the grooming. A smaller dog only needs a small comb or rake and a large piece of grooming equipment will make grooming more difficult as it will not easily fit to the contours of the dog's body.

A detangling rake has long pin like teeth that are rounded at the end. Normally the rake is triangular or inclined at the end and allows for ease of grooming even with very long, thick coats. It is not appropriate for fine, detailed grooming but it is a great place to start with a dog that has not been groomed for a couple of days, or if tangles or mats are noticeable.

After completing the rough brushing with the detangling rake or comb it is time to move onto brushing out the fine tangles and removing all the dead hair and fine debris or dirt from the coat. One of the best tools for enhancing the look of your dog's coat is a pin brush. This brush is very similar to a human hairbrush, except that the pins are usually stainless steel rather than plastic, and they are generally thicker and slightly wider spaced than human hair brushes. For very small dogs or dogs with extremely fine hair it is possible to get pin brushes that are spaced more closely together.

Finally most dogs will benefit from a quick finishing brush with a slicker brush, which is designed to decrease fly away hair, leave the coat looking smooth and shiny, and remove even the finest tangles and dirt. The slicker brush is often all that is needed for those dogs with extremely short hair or for those dogs that have only a single thinner coat. Dogs with a double coat will need a thorough brushing with the pin brush as the slicker brush will only straighten the outer coat, potentially leaving knots and mats in the dense, fine inner coat.

A brushing table or area is also an essential element in the grooming routine. Having a regular spot or area that you groom will help the dog understand what is about to happen, as well as prepare for the treat that they will receive afterwards. It is a great idea to make grooming as much fun as possible for both owner and dog, so try to keep the sessions short and frequent, rather than infrequent and long. The more regular the brushing session the less likely it is that the coat will have developed significant mats or knots.

To effectively brush a double coated dog breed it is important to take some time and look at how the dog's coat naturally grows and falls on the dog's body. Keep in mind that all dogs should only be brushed in the direction that the coat grows, never against the direction of the growth. Brushing the coat against the direction of grow will result in broken hair shafts that can cause the dog to scratch as well as give the coat an uneven look. Brushing against the direction of growth is also much more painful for the dog as it pulls against the hair follicle, leading to irritation.

If you are working with a puppy or a dog that is going to grow to be a medium, large or giant sized dog it is helpful to teach them to lay down on their side for brushing, as they are more difficult to put on a grooming table. Smaller and lighter medium sized dogs can easily be lifted onto a grooming table that makes it easy to work in comfort. Start by using the detangling rake to work through the coat. Start along the back at the base of the skull and groom in the direction of the growth of the outer coat, as this will be the same direction that the inner coat is growing. Watch for any tangles or mats, and if the rake becomes caught in a knot or a tangle immediately stop the movement. Back the rake up slightly and remove it from the coat. Grasping the coat behind the knot and close to the skin, use the rake to start from the outside edges of the hair or mat and gently remove the tangles using short strokes gradually moving closer to your hand. When you have the knot removed start at the top of the back and run the rake through the same section of hair, ensuring that the knot is completely removed.

Use the detangling rake or coarse toothed comb on the entire body, including the longer hairs on the legs, rump area, and tail. The fringe hair on the legs is often known as the furnishing or feathering. The ruff or long hairs around the neck and shoulders, extending down to the chest is known as the mane, and the longer hairs on the back legs may be known as the breeching.

The detangling rake should not be used on the face or ear area, as this can be very sensitive and easily damaged if the dog was to move suddenly. Generally a soft natural bristle brush or a soft grooming mitt or cloth can be used to clean and straighten the very fine hair on the face. For those breeds that have a long forelock, such as the Pekingese or Lhasa Apso, a comb and soft bristle brush can be used to brush and style the long hair on the head and face.

To brush the undercoat have the dog stand upright or lie down on their side. With your off hand, push the hair up and towards the back of the body, starting about ¼ of the way up the ribcage on a large dog, or half way up the body on a small dog. Using the pin brush, brush the inner coat by making short strokes against the hair that you are gently holding. Take small amounts of hair and use small strokes, brushing in a downward motion. When you have gently brushed the under coat, lay the outer coat back down and move farther up the ribcage. This procedure is repeated in the same format on the chest, rump and neck. Always start at the bottom of the body and work up.

Once the under coat is completely tangle free a quick brush with the rake or comb, then a finish with the slicker brush will finish the body, chest, rump and neck. Carefully brush the long hair of the tail and the feathers on the legs.

Double coated dogs with short coats may not need the detangling rake, but should still be thoroughly brushed with both the pin brush and the slicker brush for a finished appearance. Using the pin brush on any dog's under coat will give a more full appearance to the coat and will also remove dead or dry looking hair.

Brushing single coated dogs is just as important as brushing those with double coats. Often the breeds with single coats have very fine and silky hair that can very easily tangle and mat, especially under the legs, behind the ears and around the tail.

Basically grooming the single coated dog will use much the same equipment, especially if the coat is long. Start with a grooming or detangling rake that is appropriately sized. Since there is only one coat it is not necessary to push the hair back to get to the undercoat, all that is required is brushing from the back of the dog down around the rib cage. Follow the hair growth with the rake, removing all knots and tangles. A wide toothed comb is also very effective on a small to medium sized dog, although may be too small for a larger breed.

After completing the initial pass through with the rake or comb the next step is a thorough brushing with the pin brush. All grooming or brushing needs to be in the direction of hair growth at all times. The pin brush can be used carefully on the hair around the head, the feathering on the legs as well as the longer hairs on the tail. A slicker brush then finishes off the coat and removes even fine dirt and debris from the coat.

For single coat dogs or those with short coats a grooming mitt is a wonderful idea and is easy to use and great to travel with. These gloves or mitts have a texturized surface on the palms and fingers that trap dirt and dead hairs removing them from the coat. These mitts or gloves can safely be used on ears and the very short hairs on the muzzle and around the eyes. Grooming is simply done by stroking the pet in the direction of hair growth. Dirt and debris is easily removed from the surface of the mitt with a quick rinse or a good shake.

Wire haired dogs will usually require grooming with a detangling rake and a pin brush only. As wired haired breeds are not expected to have sleek coats a slicker brush is not necessary, but can still be used to remove dirt and loose hair if required.

With any type of coat there are also some additional supplies that can make brushing easier. Bristle brushes are great for grooming puppies and indoor dogs that rarely get dirty or romp around outside. For those dogs that do go outside a lot a bristle brush is ideal for a quick brushing when they come in the house, or for removing debris and small tangles from the coat before they become problematic.

Flea combs, which are very fine combs, can also be used on small dogs and puppies to control fleas and eggs. More on handling fleas can be found in the section on "Fleas".

A rubber curry brush is effective on medium to large sized short haired dogs. The oval shape of the brush and the close fit to the palm makes it easy to use and very natural for the dog. It is an ideal tool to remove hair after a bath when the coat has just dried. Coats like those found on Mastiffs, Great Danes, Bassett Hounds, Rottweilers and Greyhounds are excellent for using rubber curry combs.

Regardless of the grooming products that are being used the key to a beautiful coat is quality nutrition and health. Proper nutrition as discussed in the article on "Food Requirements" will ensure that your pet has the right amount of carbohydrates, protein and fats for a healthy looking coat. A dry, dead or lifeless looking coat is often the first sign that the dog is suffering from some type of disease or nutritional deficiency. A lack of biotin, lipids, and proteins will result in a dry and dull looking coat, often accompanied by profound shedding throughout the year.

Another problem that first becomes noticed through the coat is parasites, worms or fleas that are depleting the dog's natural immunity. This in turn results in poor coat condition. Some medical conditions including allergies and skin disorders can also be hreflected in the condition of the dog's coat. If your dog has not had a dramatic change in food consult with your vet if shedding or coat quality is not typical.

Generally the best way to keep dog's coats looking shiny and healthy is to brush on a regular schedule. For long haired dogs this is usually every day or every other day, especially if the dog is outside. Shorter haired dogs may only need brushing every three or four days, but again if they are outside they will naturally roll in the dirt and grass, and will trap debris in the hair. Regular brushing will prevent this debris from causing irritations or at the very least from having these items brought into the house.

Determining how often to brush your dog is largely a function of how much exercise and outdoor time your dog has, as well as the type of coat that he or she has. Double coated dogs will need a lot of frequent brushing during the spring as this is when the inner coat is almost completely lost. The more that regular, gentle grooming is provided for the dog at this time the less hair will end up on furniture, clothing and decorating all the bushes and flowers in the garden.

Coat conditioner or detangling solution is a great time saver for owners of long haired dogs and dramatically reduces the problem of mats and tangles. A good dog quality spray on coat conditioner or detangling solution can be used regularly when grooming or just in the spots that it is needed. If you are using these products watch for any redness, rashes or sensitivity of the skin when you first start using. Any dry, flaky or itchy patches may be the first signs of an allergy or irritation to the product, and it should immediately be discontinued. Remember that some products will lead to a build up of sticky residue on the coat that can actually attract and hold dirt and make the coat look dull and dirty over time.

Finally, if the coat has become terribly matted the only option may be to completely clip the mat out or perhaps clip the entire dog if the mat is very large or problematic. More information on how to clip and remove mats will be discussed in the section on "Hair Clipping".

A well kept coat is one sign of an owner that truly loves their pet. Regular brushing doesn't have to be difficult or time consuming if it is done on a consistent and frequent schedule and with the right equipment. Teaching your puppy about grooming by starting with a very soft baby brush or soft bristle brush will help get them used to being brushed and handled. Be sure to give dogs and puppies lots of praise while grooming and include a game or a walk after brushing to reward them for standing or sitting for the grooming process.